Ton Sai Beach, Krabi, Thailand

Hellloooo everyone. I've been on the internet for what feels like too long (an hour), so I'll keep it brief.

I'm on a little slice of heaven here on this planet: Ton Sai beach, in Krabi province, Thailand, Andaman Coast.

The beach is small, surrounded by stunning limestone cliffs clad in dense green jungle. I'm sleeping in a bamboo bungalow set back about 100 yards from the beach for $8.50 a night.

The vibe is very relaxed here and also pleasantly social. Small, very chill bars line the beach, with their bamboo platforms and cushions and slack lines. I instantly made friends with an SF transplant from Connecticut and 2 Israelis. My peeps. And the full moon has been, of course, stunning, as have the periodic down pours, and lightning displays.

The only drawback thus far has been that no one seems to know how to cook around here. Also I very mildly strained my shoulder playing tennis in Vietnam, so I can't participate in any of the sick, sick rock climbing in these parts. Plus last night I spent the better part of 20 minutes hocking up a piece of parsley that decided to lodge itself in my throat. My did that suck.

Other than these minor distractions, I am well, and often relaxing very deeply. What's most on my mind is my return home. I'm currently booked on one of the few flights my open ticket would allow: next Tuesday April 14! Wow.

The prospect of returning is bringing up a lot, so much so that at times it feels overwhelming. A few things about it are freaking me out. And part of me is also excited of course.

More to come on that most likely. For now, I send you warm crystal water and tropical breezes from Ton Sai.

Love Roni

ps - How fucking cool is this? It's a boat snack bar at the beach!

Whoa Bangkok You Rich Chocolate Cake You

It's been quite the day. After my pre-dawn wake up and morning temple tour (see previous post), I hopped a propelor (help me with the spelling on that one, will ya?) plane to Bangkok, split a cab with some Jersey kids, and bam - traffic city!

There was a huge festival in town today, and the roads were super clogged. After finally reaching my (awesome) guesthouse, I went for a stroll that turned into a 3-hour charicture of my time in Asia.

I felt a bit like Bill Murray in Groundhog Day meets Jim Carey in the Truman Show.
Like, "Hmmm, is this really familiar dealio for real?!"

Thousands and thousands of people were in the streets. I was the only white person besides one couple I saw for 10 seconds.

It was extraordinarily loud. I think us Westerners somehow eveolved more sensitive ears, or some shit.

Anyway, I experienced:
* so much street food, of course
* bumper cars - so fun to bash the little Thai kids! They liked bashing me too.
* EVERYTHING for sale and people blaring into megaphones to sell it
* lots and lots of raffles
* I don't know maybe 200,000 people?!

A welcome change - I did not experience:
* being hassled
* people pointing at me and laughing
* searing stomach pains

Folks there's so much more to it, but I'm at my limit.

Love you,
Roni

ps - OK, a little more. Once I hit my limit at the fest, getting home was virtually impossible. I got pretty lost and with lots of roads closed, it was a real challenge getting home. It all felt quite surreal in its intensity, and just as I thought, "Shit, I might just curl up here on this sidewalk and go to sleep," I came across a huge Thai political rally, featuring those red-shirted peeps I protested with 2 months ago clapping elatedly to a stocky man giving an impassioned speach. Full circle in a really strange, "Is this happening?" sort of way.

Walking a Dream

I had the incredible opportunity today to live out a dream.

I woke at 4:30am, and by 5 in the morning was zooming through the Cambodian countryside on the back of my driver Raba's motorbike. It was quite dark, the clouds lit up by lightning as thunder rumbeled in the distance and rain pelted our faces. Oooh!

I knew just where I wanted to go to experience dawn at Angkor: not Angkor Wat, where most people go, but to Ta Phrom, the temple I described after my first day, where nature and ancient ruins are intertwined in a stunning, erie, powerful display.

I arrive a bit later than I want to (forgot my entrance card and had to zip back to the hotel, only not to find it and have to buy a new one), and slip through the massive stone entry way and down the jungle path. The rain had stopped, but thunder continuined to rumble in the distance as flashes of lightning periodically lit up the sky.

Oooh. I am walking my dream. The dream I told you about a few days ago, one I had in Vietnam 3 weeks ago, where I am walking through my hometown, and all the buildings suddenly turn an erie color and are eventually overtaken by green - by plants!

So here I am. Alone, meandering purposefully through an ancient temple built almost 1,000 years ago, as first light is breaking, thunder clasps and lightning flashes. Wow.

I scramble up a pile of stones. I sit atop a massive archeway and peer out at the stunning ruins as they grow increasingly brighter in the growing morning light. It is a powerful experience.

Pictures can't do it justice, because pictures can't do that place justice, certainly not so early in the morning. And of course you can't photograph a dream.

Questions remain about the dream and about this day. In any case, I'm glad I went. What a way to end my foray into this stunning place!

Much love,
Roni

I'm about to board a plan to Bangkok. Ah, Thailand! It brings a smile to my face. As I see it, Cambodia was me rounding third base - and my last 2 weeks in Thailand will be a gentle, I hope, trot home! I'll be sure to keep keepin' ya posted. Wish me a sweet, relaxing, beautiful time on the beach.

The Oldest of the Old

Today I visited the remains of 3 Angkor temples that are part of the so called Roulous group.

Evidently they were discovered by the eminent French archeologist Jacques Roulous, who later, strangely enough, went on to found the Mentos corporation. Weird.

In any case, here are a couple of pics. These were some of the earlier Angkor remples.

I called it a day early, and spent the rest of my afternoon emailing, hissy-fitting, eating, and kicking it poolside with a few gay guys over at my hotel, the Golden Banana. Pics to come - what a time we had!

Love Roni

Ominous Signs in Asia

Hey peeps. Glad I grabbed your attention with this profound-seeming title.

I'm not talking about messages from beyond though. I'm talking about messages from local governments and businesses here in Asia - and sometimes, oh my are they strange.

When I return, I will compile and release, "Next Time Ask An American: The 10 Most Fucked Up Signs I Saw in Asia."

There have been some funny ones for sure. Here's a teaser.

Love,
Roni



ps - A word about this sign, and the service it advertises. At first I was like, "Dude that is fucked up. No way am I doing that. Weird!" But then I saw another sign, and another, and it turns out there are at least three places in downtown Siem Reap, Cambodia that offer fish massages. I came across a communal tub in a little square and lots of Westerners were actually doing it - and having a hoot! After 2 minutes of debate, I decided, "What the fuck. You only live once, and this will be the most action I've gotten in 2 months. Minus the guy who groped me at the beach in Vietnam (no shit)." So I did it, and it was actually...kind of fun. Little fish teem around and nibble on your feet, just like the sign says. Now unlike what the sign says, it certainly does not qualify as a massage. But it was enjoyable nonetheless, in that peculiar only-in-Asia way.

Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom

Wowsies, my third full day of temple exploration, and I am still stoked, though quite beat! I know I have it better than the vast majority of Cambodians, but it really is hard work walking and climbing all day in 100 degrees heat.

Not that I'm complaining! Today I visited the big one - Angkor Wat - as well as another biggie - Angkor Thom - and they were awesome.

Angkor Wat is really amazing: the largest religious structure on earth. At least that's what my guide book says, the one I paid $5 to a little Cambodian kid for, only later realizing they are bootleg copies. Who cares.

Anyway Angkor Wat is, not surprisingly, the most touristed, because it's the biggest and draws the tour bus crowd like crazy. Thankfully, I spent 4 hours there, and the last 2 were blissful - almost everyone leaves for lunch around noon, so I had this massive complex mostly to myself. See the last 3 pics.

I spent lots of time wandering the complex, and some time deciphering (with the help of the guidebook) the incredible inscriptions that cover more than a quarter mile of wall space. Carved into stone is much of Hindu mythology! Actually the whole complex is supposed to represent the world according to Hindu cosmology. Incredible.

After Angkor Wat, we sped a few minutes north to Angkor Thom, an ancient city with lots of temples, roads, walls, and jungle. Fascinating. First two pics, as well as the two of Bayon from yesterday.

As I've said, it feels so wonderful to scamper around on these structures, especially knowing they were built a millennium ago!

More to come,
Love Roni

Angkor Sucks!

Not! April fools. Sucker.

Angkor continues to amaze me. I visited 4 temples today, from 9:30am to 6:30pm. We covered 60 miles through the Cambodian countryside on a motorbike.

The first temple was wonderful. The next was just tiny ruins, buried in stream beds and carved into massive boulders one mile into the jungle. Very cool.

Then the last two - oh my. Bantrey Srei is the most ornate of all the temples - incredible detail, carved into stone 1,000 years ago! And Banteay Samre - I think that's been my favorite. Almost no one there, and a very powerful, still presence.

So amazing to be able to visit these places - and view spectacular sunsets from the tops of temples every night!

Love Roni

Here are 8 pics, 2 each of the following temples, in this order:
1. Banteay Srei (most ornate)
2. Jungle temple I can't remember the name of (mysterious)
3. Pre Rup (came here first thing in the morning, and then again for sunset)
4. Banteay Samre (wow)

ps - That pic of the buddha is a self-portrait. For real. Not too shabby!