Home

I am home peeps. And it is good.

It is sun and blue skies and crisp, dry air.

It is hills and evergreen forests and the San Francisco Bay! And beaches like you wouldn't believe.

It is waking up every day in a stunning house in the hills, and getting a hug from one of my best friends.

It is hamburgers and french fries and quinoa and tap water and ice cream!

It is English, sweet English.

It is silence, blessed s i l e n c e. And it is slower. So much slower.

And it is dancing and music and fucking deliciousness! And cuddling and nibbling and a bit more than that.

It is some disappointment and lots to be grateful for.

And it is ex's, and that's a lot better. And it is dear friends I am loving reconnecting with and dear friends I have yet to, and people I've watched from afar who suddenly sparkle, or seem softer, or somehow more interesting.

And it is fucking expensive here!

And it is hikes and swimming, and even soccer leagues to come.

And it is stars. Constellations even! Bursting from a clear night sky.

Mostly it is a whole lot of doing very little, and doing it slowly.

I don't know what is next. I do know it feels good to be back!

Love Roni

Answers

When I was young I loved math. And I was a whiz.

I remember 3rd grade, when I'd pretend to take a lot longer to finish a math quiz than I needed, to avoid the shame I felt at always being the first kid - by far - to hand in his test.

In 6th grade I remember finding a solution to a math problem - a correct solution I bet - that the teacher just plain could not understand. All she could do was smile and nod.

Five years later, when my dad picked up after taking the SATs, he asked me how I did. I said, "I don't think I got any wrong on the math part." I didn't.

Math was always a breeze for me and I always loved it. I found beauty in the solutions and craved the challenge of getting there.

Maybe math also provided me with a sense of security in an insecure world. That's what the experts might say anyway.

Whatever the source of my passion, I thought my math mind might in some way underlie my life's work. I'd grow up to be an engineer perhaps. My dad always said with pride - knew really - that I would invent something one day.

Then I started reading books by people like Noam Chomsky and Howard Zinn and Karl Marx. Since a young age, I was involved in politics. But after reading these guys, I found a new sense of urgency in tackling world affairs.

So I majored in political science (and history), and spent much of my college years organizing for peace and social justice.

"I have invented something, Aba," I told my dad. "A new society."

I wanted so much for this new society, one based on peace and freedom and justice and sharing, to come to be. It made so much sense - and still does - just like the math problems I was always so good at solving.

Capitalism = war + repression + environmental destruction.
Socialism = sharing + prosperity.
Anarchism = freedom.
Therefor, socialism + anarchism = a good society.

Simple equations. In theory.

But not in practice. I learned that pretty quick trying to turn theories into practice.

In practice people often go against their own interests. In practice people fight even though it's bad for both parties. In practice, really, humans are not perfect and they are not simple. They are complicated, and societies just as complicated, if not more.

I started to see the world as less black and white, and more grey. Politics, I learned, is anything but a science.

My politics - and my activism - evolved along the way. I kept many of my principles, but opened up to new methods and endgames.

5 years later, it took the deepest heartbrake of my life for me to begin to realize - to face, actually - that what was true out in the world was also true in me.

That despite our best efforts, we cannot be perfect. That no matter how hard we try, no matter how much a relationship seems to make sense, sometimes it just doesn't work.

That's been a tough lesson for me to learn, and subsequent heartbrakes have taught me the same. For example, that though 2x may equal y, (Jewish + Sexy + Fun + Nature-loving + Accomplished) plus (Jewish + Sexy + Fun + Nature-loving + Accomplished) does not always equal babies. As hard as you try.

(I'm not shooting blanks. You catch my drift I hope).

Good answers, in black and white theory. But we are grey, so very many shades of grey.

Now this past year. For me, it's been so much about letting go of control and stepping into a world of unknowns.

Today, as I pondered why I am leaving Asia (and simply could not find an answer), it sunk in that much deeper what a challenge I have set for myself - for this math mind, honed like a bird of prey, to live in a world with few clear answers. Or where if there are answers, they can take a long time to come - and the route to getting there can be anything but logical or clear.

I love the math part of myself. Love it. But the logical part of me cannot figure out why I am leaving Asia right now most likely because the answers, if there are any, they are not yet formed, and they may not lie in the realm of logic. The answers may come later, or they may be here - so very here - but may lie in the realm of soul or spirit or feeling or fate or chance or some combination of factors far more complicated than any math problem any human being will every conceptualize, much less solve.

Ooh does that make me uncomfortable! At least the part of me that wants to figure things out and get to answers.

What I'm doing instead, it seems, is practicing living in the unknown. Feeling my may through the dark, with as much lightness as I can muster. That this practice might shake me out to a deeper core of security, freedom, joy and humanity that I simply cannot achieve by problem solving, no mater how good I am.

This realm is more about trying. It's about riding waves. It's about trust, and love, and intuition and what feels true.

I've tried the other way, the logic way. Boy it has served me well in so many ways. It really has.

But for me, at least, it's not a way to live, not if it's the basis for everything. It never has been the only way for me, but perhaps it's been the dominant way. That's a treading of water, and water at a rather low level at that.

But ooh this journey into the unknown is hard for me. It is hard!

And its answers are not pat. If only we could sit alone in the desert for 3 days and nights and come home fully initiated into a world of mystery. If only a journey of 70 days could bring us fully into the people we want to be.

These are marvelous experiences. They contribute to our growth, sometimes tremendously. But they are not the be all end all.

Part of me wants to come back home and say, "I found the answer! I tested myself, realized x and y, and now I can come home. The Hero's Journey is complete, and now it's time for the next stage!"

But I didn't. And I don't think it is.

Or maybe I did and it is, though I don't think so.

The closest I can come to an answer right now is, "Peeps, I had a good trip. There were ups and downs, and I'm really glad I went. I had some hard times, and some amazing experiences. Holy shit! But I'm pretty tired now. I miss my friends and my dancing and my sports and my food and my culture, and I'm out of fuel for this part of the adventure. And I don't want to explore without a zest for exploration. I don't want to keep going just for the sake of keeping going. So I'm coming home, even though I don't feel particularly drawn to come home and even though I'm unsure what it all means for me."

There you go. Pretty simple, and yet not all that clear, to me anyway. Or maybe it is pretty clear?

In any case I can feel the heat spread through my body as my critic and the part that wants order reel at such an answer. Recoil at the thought of it. Go back and keep editing that last paragraph, so that even if I am unsure, at least I've written a paragraph that perfectly summarizes my lack of certainty.

LOL. Oh this monkey mind. Oooh oooh aahh!

So maybe that's part of it: to act anyway from this place of unknown. To play around in this place without looking for answers. ("'To live the questions!' as Rilke says, Roni!, I can hear my chorus of healer/ee friends exclaim!")

So maybe that really is it. And maybe it's that the lessons of this journey will sink in over time. And that the journey is never over. And that this stage is probably not over either. And that I can continue to embrace a sense of adventure and trying and the unknown in my life, and keep wandering for some time, whether it's in Thailand or Fairfax, or Utah or France. And that, tomorrow, so much more might sink in.

In short, can it be grey and unclear and complicated? And can that be OK?

There's so much more to all this. Of course. But I'll leave my answer at that for now, grey as it is.

Much love from the Taiwan airport,
Roni

ps - Wow writing this helped so much. Thank you for this miracle of writing.

A Prayer for Thailand

As I looked at the Thais gazing with concern at a burning bus blocking an intersection today, I had a deju vu feeling, and my heart was filled with pain. I wanted to cry.

I thought of Cambodia and Saigon and Lebanon and all the beautiful places on this planet that have been wrecked by civil war. Where it starts with a bombing here and a bombing there on a sultry summer day, and before you know it the cafes close and people start dying and soon it spirals terribly out of control.

Thailand please do not go down this path, I thought. Your neighbors have done it. You do not want to end up like them. You have it good.

You are such beautiful people. You have such a beautiful culture. Don't let yourselves be destroyed. Whatever your conflicts, solve them peacefully.

I hope, I pray, for the beautiful people of this beautiful land that the current skirmishes do not lead to all out civil war. That if it gets much worse, government and opposition leaders will act with caution, and ordinary Thais by the millions will stand up and say, "No. No way. We will not let you destroy us."

If you feel moved to, join me in this prayer.

Love Roni

Battles in Bangkok

My last night here in Asia. Can you believe it? I hardly can.

Today was as fitting a day as ever to end it, a sort of Asia Redux featuring street food, meandering, interesting transportation options, fruit shakes, protests, government crackdowns, fires, a massive festival, cute girls, and very itchy, mosquito-bite ridden ankles. Plus of course the requisite pointing and laughing by the locals.

It was a very fun day, and a bit eerie as well, as play fighting and real fighting co-existed within blocks of one another.

You've probably heard about the protests that have spread across Bangkok, and the heavy-handed government response. I don't know which side is better, if one side is even better.

I woke up today to the news - emailed over by my sister - that government forces opened fire on protesters early this morning, injuring at least 70 people. Protesters were - and still are - occupying intersections, and supposedly threw fire bombs.

Despite my sister's warning, I left my guesthouse and took a packed river taxi down to Chinatown. If there's one place in any city where protests are least likely to happen, I think it's Chinatown.

I enjoyed some street food and a few good soaks, this being the first official day of the Thai New Year and related water-based revelry.

Unfortunately the government called off the major celebrations today because of the whole 'state of emergency tanks in the streets threat of civil war' thing. But in addition to pockets of water play on side streets and corners, Kho San Rd, where I lived it up last night, was packed.

I took a Tuk Tuk there, and half way we are suddenly heading toward a huge plume of black smoke. Oh shit! I'm like, "Let's not go there. Let's not go there!"

The driver follows the rest of the traffic and takes a detour. We get close again, and turns out its a bus protesters had set on fire. Whoa.

People are gathered around, staring calmly with looks of concern on their faces, like, "Oh no where are we headed?" And all the while some of them are carrying waterguns, and 100 yards away there is revelry.

I said a prayer and then went back to the playfighting.

No more super soaker 1500 for me today. I haggled in Chinatown and upgraded to the 2000 PSI model, the one's the German's recommended.

Those Na - Germans - were right. This thing is bad ass. It's huge, has great accuracy to 20 feet, holds a good amount of ammo, and, aimed correctly, it can take someone's eye out.

Oh my god was this fun. Thousands and thousands of people in the streets soaking the shit out of each other all day. Little kids, big kids - even older men and women.

People shoot you with water guns, fire at you with hoses, and douse the crap out of you with buckets. Sometimes the water is ice cold, and sometimes it catches you completely by surprise.

I made some headway in terms of the rules of engagement, but not much. Here's what I picked up:
* Don't shoot old people
* Do shoot cop cars
* Don't shoot at people when they're on their cell phones
* Mainly shoot below the head, unless the target has a big gun or is a Westerner
* Go easy on nerdy people who are dressed up
* When you join forces with cute girls, but be sure to shoot at them too, to maintain the whole masculine 'I can take you in a second thing if you wanted me to' vibe

After an hour of minor skirmishes, I found a little electronic music set up in the narrow street. I joined forces with some cute Czeck girls, and we battled some Italian guys, and ambushed any Westerner who dared cross our paths.

Then we joined forces with the Italian guys, and instead of heading over every 3 minutes for another water fill up, I paid a buck 20 for a trash barrel full. Sweet! We filled that puppy up a good 6 or 7 times.

It was fucking rad. Daytime is great cus' it's so hot it feels good to be drenched. By nightfall, that changed, and it was time for me to head home.

OK, so in summation, today was awesome, I am safe, and my ankles feel like they will explode from mosquito bites. What a perfect last day in Asia :-) :-(

Lots of love,
Roni

From the same cloth

About 6 months ago, when I was telling my therapist about the vision for this journey, I exclaimed emphatically, "I want to adventure and explore and test myself. I do NOT want to end of on a beach with some fucking Israelis!"

LOL. I just spent 5 days with 2 awesome Israelis on an amazing Thai beach, and it's exactly what I wanted.

Oren and Gabi are salt of the earth peeps, and they welcomed me in with vigor. We ate together, swam, lounged, kick it at night, played backgammon (big game in the Middle East)...

We even sang Passover songs together! Classic wandering Jews.

I loved hanging out with Oren and Gabi, loved the authenticity and vigor and love of life and generosity that has always epitomized this culture I identified with. Sharing food and time and money and hammocks for them is a no brainer. Humor rolls off the tongue. And they tell it like it is, or, at least, how they see it.

For so long I, like many Israelis, have judged and sometimes shunned other Israelis. And yes, the culture has traits I don't think are healthy, and out of balance, some can be annoying or worse.

But there is also so much beauty in the culture I come from, a passion and generosity and authenticity that to me feels like some of the best of what it means to be human. Like if you need food or a place to stay, there is never a question you will get it. Never.

I told Oren and Gabi when I left them today how much I enjoyed spending time with them. It felt good to be with people who are made of similar cloth as me.

I also told them they renewed my faith in Israelis, and really in certain parts of myself, those audacious, vibrant parts that sometimes get me into trouble but that are really a big part of who I am.

Much love,
Roni

ps - Check out this Seder plate I got our bungalow place to whip up. I tell you this was not easy on an isolated Thai beach. I don't think I'll soon forget the image of the head cook and three employees lined up listening to another employee try to explain that it was Passover and I needed certain foods on a plate. She explains. Blank stares. So she takes a step back and explains, "Christians...Muslims...Jews." Blank stares. Anyway somehow the plate came together, and it rocked. We used nori crackers for matza, and Oren even made charosset out of dates and cashews he brought from Jordan! So yum.

pps - Also Gabi is hot. Argentinian Jews...god damn.

Holy shit! The world's biggest water fight!

I land in Bangkok today, and what a scene. The roads are quite empty, as I've been told people don't drive much here Sundays.

Empty except for massive protests, and the tanks the government has called out, promising to use force if necessary. Oh boy.

More to the point of this post, it's Thai New Year: Songkram, a 3 day celebration featuring parties, food, and...water fights!

I'd heard of this and was excited to participate tomorrow. On a whim this eve I thought, sure it's dead out and I'm tired, but why not take a Tuk Tuk to Kho San Rd, a very bustling part of Bangkok with lots of restaurants and guesthouses.

Oh my god. It was a madhouse!

Thousands and thousands of people, overwhelmingly Thai, dousing each other and rubbing clay on each other's cheeks and dancing in the streets. You could spot the Westerners from a mile a way, because they are a foot taller and had the biggest grin on their faces as they carried around giant super soakers.

Within 10 minutes I was drenched. Within 20 I purchased a small water gun and began to fire away.

30 minutes into it I come across two topless young German men with red bandanas on their heads, dripping wet carrying large water guns.

Germans: (full on accent) Hey, what is with zee small gun?
Me: Yeah, good point. What do you have? (Fucking Nazis)
Germans: We have super soaker 2000. Zee best. AAAA!
Me: Awesome! (Fucking Nazis)

And then something clicks. I'm like, 'Yes I will join these Germans and we will kick the shit out of these Thais - Israelis and Germans together, for the good of the world!'

I buy a super soaker 1500, tie on the red bandana I carry everywhere with me, practically tear off my shirt, and roar, much to the glee of the Naz - I mean, Germans!

Well it isn't long before we are split up. But now I am feeling all sorts of bad ass with this huge gun, dousing and getting doused just as bad. And it's night, in Bangkok, and everyone is doing it, and I'm like, 'Is this really happening?'

Yes, it is. And I get another day of it tomorrow!

Love Roni

God that was/this is hard

Look I should have greater calamities in life than having to leave tropical paradise.

But it was still hard to leave Ton Sai beach today. Especially as two bombshell Italian stewardesses clad in revealing bikinis and sunbathing on my favorite little beachside bamboo platform on the planet were imploring me to stay, in their luscious accents. Yeah that was really hard.

But alas, here I am, in the Krabi, Thailand airport, about to board a plane to Bangkok. And in less than 48 hours, I'll be on a plane back home.

Home. Wow. It's been 2 and a half months.

I looked at myself in the mirror today in the airport bathroom and thought, "Who is this brown man with the shaved head in the tank top and thai shorts? He looks sort of Latino..."

All sorts of stuff is coming up around heading home. I've wavered between wanting to be on the first plane back to tap water, jeans and friends to wanting to stay a few lifetimes, and mainly the past few days to wanting to stay at least a few more days. Then there's the whole identity stuff, what will I do when I get home, can I still dance/remember how to cook, and will everyone still love me or be really mad that the shit I sold them fell to piece within a few days?

For the most part, my time on Ton Sai and surrounding beaches and teenee islands was wonderful. Sleeping in a bamboo bunaglow in the jungle near the beach. Swimming in warm water surrounded by towering jungle-clad limestone cliffs. Lounging for hours on pillows and platforms, talking and gazing at the moon and gazing at Italians and hanging out with awesome people and speaking Hebrew and French and even playing backgammon.

God it was so relaxing here. And yet I couldn't stop my mind from going into overdrive around my departure and when it should happen and how and why it all means and all that.

I don't know why all the angst, but I sure did feel it. But the fates have made it all a bit easier, deciding for me by putting me on the only flight out of here with available seats for the forseeable future.

Leaving. It can be hard for me. That's probably what's up. I'll do it the best I can. I bet pretty soon after being back in the States it won't even be much of an issue, if one at all.

I'll write more about this I'm sure. For now, I have two nights in Bangkok ahead of me, and one full day, at the perfect time to be there: Songkran, the Thai New Year, which I understand basically involves everyone in the streetsm partying and dumping copious amounts of water on everyone else. I don't see how this couldn't be fun.

The next two days will also give me some time to stay goodbye to this place, and sort out some more what it all has meant.

Much love to you all from Krabi Thailand. Of course one of the best parts of coming home is getting to see so many of you. Awwwww :-)

Love Roni

Ton Sai Beach, Krabi, Thailand

Hellloooo everyone. I've been on the internet for what feels like too long (an hour), so I'll keep it brief.

I'm on a little slice of heaven here on this planet: Ton Sai beach, in Krabi province, Thailand, Andaman Coast.

The beach is small, surrounded by stunning limestone cliffs clad in dense green jungle. I'm sleeping in a bamboo bungalow set back about 100 yards from the beach for $8.50 a night.

The vibe is very relaxed here and also pleasantly social. Small, very chill bars line the beach, with their bamboo platforms and cushions and slack lines. I instantly made friends with an SF transplant from Connecticut and 2 Israelis. My peeps. And the full moon has been, of course, stunning, as have the periodic down pours, and lightning displays.

The only drawback thus far has been that no one seems to know how to cook around here. Also I very mildly strained my shoulder playing tennis in Vietnam, so I can't participate in any of the sick, sick rock climbing in these parts. Plus last night I spent the better part of 20 minutes hocking up a piece of parsley that decided to lodge itself in my throat. My did that suck.

Other than these minor distractions, I am well, and often relaxing very deeply. What's most on my mind is my return home. I'm currently booked on one of the few flights my open ticket would allow: next Tuesday April 14! Wow.

The prospect of returning is bringing up a lot, so much so that at times it feels overwhelming. A few things about it are freaking me out. And part of me is also excited of course.

More to come on that most likely. For now, I send you warm crystal water and tropical breezes from Ton Sai.

Love Roni

ps - How fucking cool is this? It's a boat snack bar at the beach!

Whoa Bangkok You Rich Chocolate Cake You

It's been quite the day. After my pre-dawn wake up and morning temple tour (see previous post), I hopped a propelor (help me with the spelling on that one, will ya?) plane to Bangkok, split a cab with some Jersey kids, and bam - traffic city!

There was a huge festival in town today, and the roads were super clogged. After finally reaching my (awesome) guesthouse, I went for a stroll that turned into a 3-hour charicture of my time in Asia.

I felt a bit like Bill Murray in Groundhog Day meets Jim Carey in the Truman Show.
Like, "Hmmm, is this really familiar dealio for real?!"

Thousands and thousands of people were in the streets. I was the only white person besides one couple I saw for 10 seconds.

It was extraordinarily loud. I think us Westerners somehow eveolved more sensitive ears, or some shit.

Anyway, I experienced:
* so much street food, of course
* bumper cars - so fun to bash the little Thai kids! They liked bashing me too.
* EVERYTHING for sale and people blaring into megaphones to sell it
* lots and lots of raffles
* I don't know maybe 200,000 people?!

A welcome change - I did not experience:
* being hassled
* people pointing at me and laughing
* searing stomach pains

Folks there's so much more to it, but I'm at my limit.

Love you,
Roni

ps - OK, a little more. Once I hit my limit at the fest, getting home was virtually impossible. I got pretty lost and with lots of roads closed, it was a real challenge getting home. It all felt quite surreal in its intensity, and just as I thought, "Shit, I might just curl up here on this sidewalk and go to sleep," I came across a huge Thai political rally, featuring those red-shirted peeps I protested with 2 months ago clapping elatedly to a stocky man giving an impassioned speach. Full circle in a really strange, "Is this happening?" sort of way.

Walking a Dream

I had the incredible opportunity today to live out a dream.

I woke at 4:30am, and by 5 in the morning was zooming through the Cambodian countryside on the back of my driver Raba's motorbike. It was quite dark, the clouds lit up by lightning as thunder rumbeled in the distance and rain pelted our faces. Oooh!

I knew just where I wanted to go to experience dawn at Angkor: not Angkor Wat, where most people go, but to Ta Phrom, the temple I described after my first day, where nature and ancient ruins are intertwined in a stunning, erie, powerful display.

I arrive a bit later than I want to (forgot my entrance card and had to zip back to the hotel, only not to find it and have to buy a new one), and slip through the massive stone entry way and down the jungle path. The rain had stopped, but thunder continuined to rumble in the distance as flashes of lightning periodically lit up the sky.

Oooh. I am walking my dream. The dream I told you about a few days ago, one I had in Vietnam 3 weeks ago, where I am walking through my hometown, and all the buildings suddenly turn an erie color and are eventually overtaken by green - by plants!

So here I am. Alone, meandering purposefully through an ancient temple built almost 1,000 years ago, as first light is breaking, thunder clasps and lightning flashes. Wow.

I scramble up a pile of stones. I sit atop a massive archeway and peer out at the stunning ruins as they grow increasingly brighter in the growing morning light. It is a powerful experience.

Pictures can't do it justice, because pictures can't do that place justice, certainly not so early in the morning. And of course you can't photograph a dream.

Questions remain about the dream and about this day. In any case, I'm glad I went. What a way to end my foray into this stunning place!

Much love,
Roni

I'm about to board a plan to Bangkok. Ah, Thailand! It brings a smile to my face. As I see it, Cambodia was me rounding third base - and my last 2 weeks in Thailand will be a gentle, I hope, trot home! I'll be sure to keep keepin' ya posted. Wish me a sweet, relaxing, beautiful time on the beach.

The Oldest of the Old

Today I visited the remains of 3 Angkor temples that are part of the so called Roulous group.

Evidently they were discovered by the eminent French archeologist Jacques Roulous, who later, strangely enough, went on to found the Mentos corporation. Weird.

In any case, here are a couple of pics. These were some of the earlier Angkor remples.

I called it a day early, and spent the rest of my afternoon emailing, hissy-fitting, eating, and kicking it poolside with a few gay guys over at my hotel, the Golden Banana. Pics to come - what a time we had!

Love Roni

Ominous Signs in Asia

Hey peeps. Glad I grabbed your attention with this profound-seeming title.

I'm not talking about messages from beyond though. I'm talking about messages from local governments and businesses here in Asia - and sometimes, oh my are they strange.

When I return, I will compile and release, "Next Time Ask An American: The 10 Most Fucked Up Signs I Saw in Asia."

There have been some funny ones for sure. Here's a teaser.

Love,
Roni



ps - A word about this sign, and the service it advertises. At first I was like, "Dude that is fucked up. No way am I doing that. Weird!" But then I saw another sign, and another, and it turns out there are at least three places in downtown Siem Reap, Cambodia that offer fish massages. I came across a communal tub in a little square and lots of Westerners were actually doing it - and having a hoot! After 2 minutes of debate, I decided, "What the fuck. You only live once, and this will be the most action I've gotten in 2 months. Minus the guy who groped me at the beach in Vietnam (no shit)." So I did it, and it was actually...kind of fun. Little fish teem around and nibble on your feet, just like the sign says. Now unlike what the sign says, it certainly does not qualify as a massage. But it was enjoyable nonetheless, in that peculiar only-in-Asia way.

Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom

Wowsies, my third full day of temple exploration, and I am still stoked, though quite beat! I know I have it better than the vast majority of Cambodians, but it really is hard work walking and climbing all day in 100 degrees heat.

Not that I'm complaining! Today I visited the big one - Angkor Wat - as well as another biggie - Angkor Thom - and they were awesome.

Angkor Wat is really amazing: the largest religious structure on earth. At least that's what my guide book says, the one I paid $5 to a little Cambodian kid for, only later realizing they are bootleg copies. Who cares.

Anyway Angkor Wat is, not surprisingly, the most touristed, because it's the biggest and draws the tour bus crowd like crazy. Thankfully, I spent 4 hours there, and the last 2 were blissful - almost everyone leaves for lunch around noon, so I had this massive complex mostly to myself. See the last 3 pics.

I spent lots of time wandering the complex, and some time deciphering (with the help of the guidebook) the incredible inscriptions that cover more than a quarter mile of wall space. Carved into stone is much of Hindu mythology! Actually the whole complex is supposed to represent the world according to Hindu cosmology. Incredible.

After Angkor Wat, we sped a few minutes north to Angkor Thom, an ancient city with lots of temples, roads, walls, and jungle. Fascinating. First two pics, as well as the two of Bayon from yesterday.

As I've said, it feels so wonderful to scamper around on these structures, especially knowing they were built a millennium ago!

More to come,
Love Roni

Angkor Sucks!

Not! April fools. Sucker.

Angkor continues to amaze me. I visited 4 temples today, from 9:30am to 6:30pm. We covered 60 miles through the Cambodian countryside on a motorbike.

The first temple was wonderful. The next was just tiny ruins, buried in stream beds and carved into massive boulders one mile into the jungle. Very cool.

Then the last two - oh my. Bantrey Srei is the most ornate of all the temples - incredible detail, carved into stone 1,000 years ago! And Banteay Samre - I think that's been my favorite. Almost no one there, and a very powerful, still presence.

So amazing to be able to visit these places - and view spectacular sunsets from the tops of temples every night!

Love Roni

Here are 8 pics, 2 each of the following temples, in this order:
1. Banteay Srei (most ornate)
2. Jungle temple I can't remember the name of (mysterious)
3. Pre Rup (came here first thing in the morning, and then again for sunset)
4. Banteay Samre (wow)

ps - That pic of the buddha is a self-portrait. For real. Not too shabby!

Wat the FUCK???

I knew the temples of Angkor would be stunning, and still it's a whole different deal to walk among them.

Oh my God. I barely scratched the surface today, visiting 5 of maybe 100 sites, and it was borderline surreal.

2 weeks ago I had a very powerful dream (dude, Krouzman, what do you eat mushrooms now before you go to bed or something?) that the jungle was taking over buildings, and that's what I saw today: the spectacular, massive, ornate, masterfully constructed remnants of a 1,000-year old civilization, all amidst thick jungle - and sometimes, left, purposely, to intertwine with the jungle.


Here are three pics of many. They hardly do such a mind-blowing place justice.

My videos will do it some justice though! Coming soon to a screen near you: "Angkors! The Khmers Strike Back!" And you know just what the sound track will be.

Much love,
Roni

ps - every evening, I get to return to the "Golden Banana," a gay-owned and operated (get the name now?!) tropical hotel/guesthouse that seems almost as lavishly unreal as the temples. At $20 a night, I generally need to ask a fellow guest to pinch me as I sip my lime ice tea at poolside, just to make sure it's really happening. The men have been more than happy to oblige!

pps - Just kidding. I am not gay.

ppps - Lots of Brits traveling around South East Asia, like the 2 girls in the internet lab right now. Sometimes their accent can be so endearing, and sometimes I just want to shake them and shout, "Spit out the beef jerky and speak like a normal person for God's sake!"